Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
